It takes a cup of adrak wali chai loaded with sugar to write about Dharamshala.
Geographically, it's in Himachal Pradesh, the state which is known for it's beautiful hill stations. Dharamshala as the name suggests, is the "resting place for spiritual travelers". I guess the Dalai Lama was one such spiritual traveler who loved this place so much that he decided to make his abode there permanently. I am not going to write in detail about the demographics, as that can found in wiki. I am only sharing my experience.
We started on an Autumn morning, left Delhi at 5am. My DH loves to drive. Our SUV is practically a second home to us, that's why most of our trips are planned just overnight, where we dump our stuff and drive on,this was one of them.
We reached Kurukshetra around 7am, pulled over for some nice chai and 'biskoot' break(yes that's how biscuit is pronounced up north), while the lil one was snoring away to glory on the backseat.
After driving for couple of more hours, we stopped at a road side dhaba, for stuffed tandoori paratha breakfast, served with white butter, pickle and curd. Its a must try. See, up north, one has to eat at the roadside dhabas, and you should forget your diets. Finger licking delicious food served there. If you are too uptight about the so called hygiene, then let me share my tip, the open dhabha kitchens are much more clean than roach infesting plush interiors of a five star restaurant. So, shun those inhibitions, and enjoy the sinful food. I certainly did. I also snoozed for 30 minutes after the heavy breakfast followed by a huge glass of lassi.
The journey to Dharamshala by road is about 7-8 hours, with stops, if you have a kid then there would be frequent ones.
Its a journey to be enjoyed, as we proceeded, we crossed the yellow dancing mustard fields, well I wanted to get a pic clicked a la Yash Chopra movie style, but couldnt, as the insecticides were being sprayed.
The fresh air, touched my face, as I put my head out of the window, when the ascend started. Hairpin bends throughout the uphill drive.
We stayed in a nice 3 star hotel, we could see the Dalai Lama temple from our balcony. We were welcomed with refreshing adrak wali chai and pakodas, with chaat masala sprinkled on it.
We went for a walk till the local bazar at 5:30, and shops shut by 6pm. Yep, it gets dark by 6, so people wind up and call it a night and go back to their cosy homes. The bungalows had a separate fire place, and the bungalows had a very eerie feeling, like the ones that are shown in horror movies.
Next morning after a breakfast of egg bhurjee, parathas, adrak chai, we finally left for the Dalai Lama temple, that was about 7-8 kms uphill, from our hotel. It's popularly known as Mcleodganj. En route to Dharamshala, you will find lot of streams, with rocks and pebbles, do pull up your car, and spend some time, dipping your feet and hands in the crystal clear ice cold water, if you are a pebble collector like me, then you should not miss it at all. Nature at it's best!
Throughout Dharamshala, also you would find those streams. We reached the temple, but obviously we couldn't meet His Holiness. It is also a place of stay and work for the Tibetan refugees, some of them work and study in the monasteries, while some stay in the monasteries, and study or work outside.
The street market, near the temple should not be missed. Its a haven for silver jewellery freaks, again like me. There are Buddhas available in bronze and wood, which can be gifted or bought for personal collection. Bargaining is allowed, so go ahead bindaas bargain. There is a small shop, which sells pendants in that market, WOW! what a collection, pure silver, designs so unique, you would not find them anywhere or that easily. I splurged and picked up two of them.
There are small cafes run by the Tibetans, momos are a must try. For non vegetarians, there are lot of options, as they said, that the pahari murg has a very distinct taste and flavour. I being a vegetarian actually egg-itarian, had the egg of pahari murg ;). We had a lunch of momos, spanish omlette, french fries, noodles in a bowl, with some amazing lemon ice tea, freshly prepared not the packet ones. And after that, we also had strong coffee, I finally got my caffeine dose. That area around the temple is also called as 'Little Lhasa', the capital of Tibet.
We went further up, to BhagsuNag falls, that's a snake of Lord Shiva, and there is a story attached to it, me not being a Shiva devotee, didnt pay too much attention, neither did I enter the Bhagsu Nag temple. I just went ahead to the falls, its a steep climb and lot of climbing, along the steps that lead to the top, there are small eating joints and shops which serve tea, and cold drinks, there are also garbage bins, but you would still find bottles and empty packets thrown carelessly around by our very own fellow bhartiya bhais and behenjis. My lil one and me used to stop after every 25 steps, pick up some trash and throw it in the dustbin.
We finally reached a spot which had huge rocks, and a stream flowing by, clicked pics and rested, after all that strenuous climbing, this was a welcome break. The walk down was easier, we went back to that small cafe run by the Tibetan couple and had coffee, while my lil one had a hot chocolate. Right opposite to the cafe, you could see the sun setting behind the mountains, giving the whole place an orange hue, and that was the time, when the temple bell rang, leaving my husband and kid, I walked across the road for a better view, a shopkeeper was kind enough to offer me a chair. The sound of the temple bell, the Buddhist chants, and the setting of the sun with a cup of coffee in your hand, one word - BLISS!
I soaked in the moment, closed my eyes, surrendered my mind to the serenity around me. I suddenly felt at peace, there was a certain kind of calmness which had completely engulfed me. I couldn't explain the feeling, but it was beautiful.
While you are in Dharamshala, you must eat and drink the following :
Dharamshala should be visited without an agenda, yes there are places which should not be missed, but this place is unlike any other hill station,. It's beauty lies in the snow peaked mountains, the orange hue from a setting sun, the sound of a river hopping on the pebbles, the chirpy tones of the cuckoo birds and a radiant smile on the lil Tibetan kids who wave at the tourists gleefully. We started on our journey back home, telling ourselves that we will come back.
Geographically, it's in Himachal Pradesh, the state which is known for it's beautiful hill stations. Dharamshala as the name suggests, is the "resting place for spiritual travelers". I guess the Dalai Lama was one such spiritual traveler who loved this place so much that he decided to make his abode there permanently. I am not going to write in detail about the demographics, as that can found in wiki. I am only sharing my experience.
We started on an Autumn morning, left Delhi at 5am. My DH loves to drive. Our SUV is practically a second home to us, that's why most of our trips are planned just overnight, where we dump our stuff and drive on,this was one of them.
We reached Kurukshetra around 7am, pulled over for some nice chai and 'biskoot' break(yes that's how biscuit is pronounced up north), while the lil one was snoring away to glory on the backseat.
After driving for couple of more hours, we stopped at a road side dhaba, for stuffed tandoori paratha breakfast, served with white butter, pickle and curd. Its a must try. See, up north, one has to eat at the roadside dhabas, and you should forget your diets. Finger licking delicious food served there. If you are too uptight about the so called hygiene, then let me share my tip, the open dhabha kitchens are much more clean than roach infesting plush interiors of a five star restaurant. So, shun those inhibitions, and enjoy the sinful food. I certainly did. I also snoozed for 30 minutes after the heavy breakfast followed by a huge glass of lassi.
The journey to Dharamshala by road is about 7-8 hours, with stops, if you have a kid then there would be frequent ones.
Its a journey to be enjoyed, as we proceeded, we crossed the yellow dancing mustard fields, well I wanted to get a pic clicked a la Yash Chopra movie style, but couldnt, as the insecticides were being sprayed.
The fresh air, touched my face, as I put my head out of the window, when the ascend started. Hairpin bends throughout the uphill drive.
We stayed in a nice 3 star hotel, we could see the Dalai Lama temple from our balcony. We were welcomed with refreshing adrak wali chai and pakodas, with chaat masala sprinkled on it.
We went for a walk till the local bazar at 5:30, and shops shut by 6pm. Yep, it gets dark by 6, so people wind up and call it a night and go back to their cosy homes. The bungalows had a separate fire place, and the bungalows had a very eerie feeling, like the ones that are shown in horror movies.
Next morning after a breakfast of egg bhurjee, parathas, adrak chai, we finally left for the Dalai Lama temple, that was about 7-8 kms uphill, from our hotel. It's popularly known as Mcleodganj. En route to Dharamshala, you will find lot of streams, with rocks and pebbles, do pull up your car, and spend some time, dipping your feet and hands in the crystal clear ice cold water, if you are a pebble collector like me, then you should not miss it at all. Nature at it's best!
Throughout Dharamshala, also you would find those streams. We reached the temple, but obviously we couldn't meet His Holiness. It is also a place of stay and work for the Tibetan refugees, some of them work and study in the monasteries, while some stay in the monasteries, and study or work outside.
The street market, near the temple should not be missed. Its a haven for silver jewellery freaks, again like me. There are Buddhas available in bronze and wood, which can be gifted or bought for personal collection. Bargaining is allowed, so go ahead bindaas bargain. There is a small shop, which sells pendants in that market, WOW! what a collection, pure silver, designs so unique, you would not find them anywhere or that easily. I splurged and picked up two of them.
There are small cafes run by the Tibetans, momos are a must try. For non vegetarians, there are lot of options, as they said, that the pahari murg has a very distinct taste and flavour. I being a vegetarian actually egg-itarian, had the egg of pahari murg ;). We had a lunch of momos, spanish omlette, french fries, noodles in a bowl, with some amazing lemon ice tea, freshly prepared not the packet ones. And after that, we also had strong coffee, I finally got my caffeine dose. That area around the temple is also called as 'Little Lhasa', the capital of Tibet.
We went further up, to BhagsuNag falls, that's a snake of Lord Shiva, and there is a story attached to it, me not being a Shiva devotee, didnt pay too much attention, neither did I enter the Bhagsu Nag temple. I just went ahead to the falls, its a steep climb and lot of climbing, along the steps that lead to the top, there are small eating joints and shops which serve tea, and cold drinks, there are also garbage bins, but you would still find bottles and empty packets thrown carelessly around by our very own fellow bhartiya bhais and behenjis. My lil one and me used to stop after every 25 steps, pick up some trash and throw it in the dustbin.
We finally reached a spot which had huge rocks, and a stream flowing by, clicked pics and rested, after all that strenuous climbing, this was a welcome break. The walk down was easier, we went back to that small cafe run by the Tibetan couple and had coffee, while my lil one had a hot chocolate. Right opposite to the cafe, you could see the sun setting behind the mountains, giving the whole place an orange hue, and that was the time, when the temple bell rang, leaving my husband and kid, I walked across the road for a better view, a shopkeeper was kind enough to offer me a chair. The sound of the temple bell, the Buddhist chants, and the setting of the sun with a cup of coffee in your hand, one word - BLISS!
I soaked in the moment, closed my eyes, surrendered my mind to the serenity around me. I suddenly felt at peace, there was a certain kind of calmness which had completely engulfed me. I couldn't explain the feeling, but it was beautiful.
While you are in Dharamshala, you must eat and drink the following :
- Momos from the Tibetan cafes, non vegetarians, shouldn't miss.
- Maggi made by the locals, - trust me, the taste and the flavour is totally different from what's made at home, chilly evenings and spicy maggi. Aha!
- The onion and capsicum pakodas, ask for some chaat masala, if yours is not sprinkled with some. If you are a non vegetarian, check out the egg pakodas too.
- The stuffed parathas and if you eat eggs, don't miss the spicy egg bhurjee. The omlettes and bhurjee made from the country eggs are healthier, by the way.
- Adrak wali chai (ask for the kullad)
- A strong cappucino at any of the Tibetan cafe along with sinful apple pie, with some cream.
- Ice tea in the afternoon.
The next day we set off to visit the HPCA cricket ground, we couldn't have got back without visiting that one, when I have a cricketer at home. After that we drove to another small hill station called Palampur, which is only 30 kms from Dharamshala, again the whole stretch was dotted with those small streams, we stopped while reaching Palampur, the pics were posted on fb, and while getting back also. Palampur is famous for it's tea estates, we strolled around, I kept smelling the tea plant, for the aroma. Never try making tea with the leaves directly, there is a reason why they are processed. :/
On our way back from Palampur, in the middle of nowhere, we spotted a store selling artifacts, parked and got down to take a look, while we did that, we also spotted a typical quaint little cafe, a tea cafe actually run by a very young girl. We stepped in, were greeted warmly, by that young lady, and I immediately started my barrage of questions, she was kind enough to answer all of them. While going through the pictures stuck on the cafe wall, I saw the picture of Dalai Lama as well, and she told me that when he visited the first time, he fell in love with her place, and he was now one of the frequent visitor. The cafe has a menu, which typically caters to the Buddhist monks or the followers of Dalai Lama and the students from the monastery. We had tea and some freshly baked almond cookies to our hearts content and drove back to the hotel.
It was our last night in the beautiful hill station, I packed all my stuff, we had dinner in one of the restaurants, and slept well, it's only when you lie down do you realize how tired your legs are.
In the morning, after a sumptuous breakfast, I bid goodbye to one of the most serene hill stations I had ever visited. We did not go to Dharamshala, to visit the famous touristy places, yet we explored the beautiful parts of the hill station on our own. And thank god, we didn't hop from one temple to another, no offense meant, but the view outside was so divine, that a stopover at a temple with stone idols didn't seem so attractive. ;)
Dharamshala should be visited without an agenda, yes there are places which should not be missed, but this place is unlike any other hill station,. It's beauty lies in the snow peaked mountains, the orange hue from a setting sun, the sound of a river hopping on the pebbles, the chirpy tones of the cuckoo birds and a radiant smile on the lil Tibetan kids who wave at the tourists gleefully. We started on our journey back home, telling ourselves that we will come back.
As always beautifully written but what stands out is your style I giggled at the comparison of the roadside cafes and the kitchens of posh hotels hahahhaha. You ROCK !!! ... Actually this post reminds me of the trips I had before the little one was born. Keep writing
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